Discover Sashiko

Sashiko is a versatile Japanese stitching and embroidery technique primarily used to mend, reinforce, and embellish garments. And if fashion is a barometer of the culture in which it’s born, then truly sashiko embroidery is one traditional craft skill that is on the up. Let’s get smarter!

 

A WEE HISTORY LESSON

A strict class hierarchy established social order during the Edo Period (1603-1867). While this division brought a sense of structure, it also imposed rules, including restrictions on using garments and textiles within each class. Commoners and the working class faced limitations on the types of textiles they could use, leading communities to adopt practices focused on extending the lifespan of available fabrics.

At this time sashiko was mostly used by the working class farming and fishing families to make stronger more practical workwear. A worn-out piece was stitched with layers of old cloth, producing a sturdy garment passed down through generations. 

Given the circumstances mending prowess was a skill needed to survive, which has evolved over the centuries from a frugal necessity into decorative stitching.

This folk textile was a well-established craft by the Meiji Era (1868-1912). Even personal protective garments, such as the firemen’s coat (hikeshibaten) used the Sashiko technique of stitching on several indigo-colored layers. This garment was worn wet after soaking in water before performing duties, and was typically decorated with dragons, mythological heroes, and symbols of water and bravery decorated the uniforms.

 

TYPES OF SASHIKO

Traditionally, sashiko styles varied depending on the region—with weather, climate, and available resources informing the different types. The main geographic variations are:

  • Tsugaru Sashiko: This mountainous region, typically wet and suitable for cultivating rice, employs white thread in a horizontal or vertical running stitch over dark-dyed indigo fabric. The deep color of the fabric symbolized the region’s wealth, as a considerable amount of indigo dye was needed.

  • Nanbu Sashiko: Located in northern Japan, this region's dry climate resulted in less prosperity in farming. Nambu Sashiko uses light blue ramie or hemp fabric as a base and then layers the shoulders and edges of the garment with light cotton. The light blue thread used for stitching contrasts the base layer’s dark indigo blue. 

  • Shimokita Sashiko: Situated in Aomori Prefecture, this peninsula region used abundant thread to make garments sturdier for wearers, mainly from the fishing industry.

  • Shonai Sashiko: This type of sashiko features distinct geometric patterns, using dark fabric with white or blue thread layered over the top, sewn from right to left and top to bottom.

Sashiko is also identifiable by the patterns and methods used. The two main styles of sashiko include moyozashi, which enforces running stitches in long lines, and hitomezashi, which aligns single stitches to create a grid.

Besides styles, another way to identify sashiko is through its various patterns. Listed below are some of the patterns found in sashiko-stitched fabrics and clothing:

  • Hanazashi Overlapping flowers
  • Seigaiha Waves
  • Tate-jima Vertical stripes
  • Yoko-jima Horizontal stripes
  • Koshi Checks
  • Hishi-moyo Diamonds
  • Uroko Fish scales
  • Jujitsunagi Crosses
  • Kaku Shippo Representative of The Seven Treasures (gold, silver, lapis lazuli, glass, mantis shrimp, coral, and agate) in the Buddhist scripture Muryoju 
  • Shippo Tsunagi Intersecting rings
  • Nowaki Wind that blows grass of the field
  • Yabane Arrow feather
  • Hoshiami Intersecting rings that resemble a fishing net

 

SASHINKO TODAY

Fashion veterans like Issey Miyake use sashiko in their collections, and it has appeared on the runway for Maison Margiela. If fashion is a barometer of the culture in which it’s born then truly Japanese sashiko embroidery is one traditional craft skill that is on the up.

In a society rooted in technological progression and cluttered with excess, it’s more imperative than ever to care for the things we hold dear. At Verdalina, Ichi Antiquities designs timeless pieces with historical relevance, things grown from generations past, and bring them to life. Based in Fukuoka, Japan, Ichi Antiquities designs and manufactures garments for an everyday lifestyle. Their Pre-Spring 25 Collection features a subtle, tone-on-tone yet intricate traditional sashiko hand-stitching detail.