Below the Belt

In Praise of Pants & Skirts

Pants: An Origin Story

In the 1800s, women were expected to wear dresses and skirts, which were seen as symbols of femininity and modesty. But in the early 20th century, Suffragettes challenged norms not just through their political actions but also their appearance. Some women embraced pants to symbolize their fight for equality, breaking away from the restrictive dresses that symbolized traditional gender roles.

During the World Wars, a societal need for women to take on traditionally male roles in factories and farms made wearing pants more acceptable. This wartime shift was significant but temporary— after the wars ended, women were often expected to return to skirts and dresses.

However, in the 1960s pants became a symbol of women’s liberation. One example is Yves Saint Laurent’s “Le Smoking” suit— the tailored tuxedo for women was a revolutionary statement about gender and power. And by the late 20th century, pants became more widely accepted as daily attire for women. The final barriers began to fall— schools, workplaces, and even formal events started allowing pants for women.

This journey of pants from a symbol of rebellion to a wardrobe staple reflects the broader struggles for gender equality, making their history as much about cultural and social progress as it is about fashion.

The Rebellious (& Reliable) Skirt

Skirts have one of the longest histories in fashion, dating back thousands of years and originally worn by both men and women. Skirts and tunics were seen as practical, especially in warm climates, where draped fabric allowed for ease of movement and comfort.

As time went on, skirts became more closely associated with femininity in many parts of the world— think the heavily structured and layered skirts in the Renaissance that reflected the growing social importance of fashion as a marker of class, through the 19th century crinolines and bustles, symbolizing both wealth and the restrictive gender roles women were expected to follow.

But skirts have also represented rebellion and changing social norms. The 1920s flapper era introduced shorter, more practical hemlines, through the 1960s, where the mini skirt, popularized by designers like Mary Quant, became a symbol of liberation, marking a significant moment in the feminist movement.

Today, skirts remain a versatile garment, reflecting a blend of tradition, cultural identity, and personal expression.